SFMOMA Presents “How Wine Became Modern: Design + Wine 1976 to Now”
by Nicholas Tamarin | Tuesday, May 18, 2010
Zahia Hadid, Lopez de Heredia, Pepe Franco, courtesy of Viña Tondonia
SFMOMA is betting that in vino veritas is really, well, true as it preps for its debut of “How Wine Became Modern: Design + Wine 1976 to Now” on November 20.
Running through April 17, 2011, the Bacchus-bent exhibit will explore the transformation in the visual and material culture of wine over the past three decades and the role design has played in those changes. The exhibit was organized by the museum’s architecture and design curator, Henry Urbach, and is billing itself as the first exhibition to explore modern, global wine culture as a cultural phenomenon.
Steven Holl, Loisium Hotel, image by Lucas Wasserman
The exhibition was designed by New York-based architecture firm Diller Scofidio + Renfro(DS+R) and is organized as a suite of galleries. Visitors will be greeted at its entrance by the sound of clinking wine glasses, which is triggered by a motion sensor. A newly commissioned work by Peter Wenger that charts more than 200 house paint colors named for wine will hang on a wall nearby and call attention to the ways in which wine-related language and colors have made their way into everyday life.
Frank O. Gehry, Hotel Marqués de Riscal, image courtesy Hotel Marqués de Riscal
Next, the Judgment of Paris, the legendary 1976 blind taste test where nine French wine experts chose Northern California wines over esteemed French vintages, resulting in the increased globalization of wine production, gets its due. DS + R will produce a life-size tableau accompanied by sound to provide viewers with a sense of the judge’s gestures and comments along with two winning bottles from the epochal event along with Timemagazine’s original article on it.
Santiago Calatrava, Ysios Winery, image courtesy Ysios Winery
Further into the exhibition, visitors will encounter installations on wine labels and brand identity, glassware, and connoisseurship and popular culture. A gallery will be devoted to the new, global, wine-related architecture, including wineries by Santiago Calatrava, Zaha Hadid, Steven Holl, Herzog + de Meuron, Renzo Piano, and Alvaro Siza. The exhibit will present photographs of 30 of the most significant wine-related buildings, while Herzog & de Meuron’s Dominus Winery, Gehry Partners’s Hotel Marqués de Riscal, and Michael Graves and Edward Schmidt’s Clos Pegase will be explored in depth with original architectural models and video interviews between the architect and client.
Glassware Gallery, image courtesy Diller Scofidio + Renfro
The exhibition will conclude with the Smell Wall, a translucent wall with suspended flacons featuring selections by sommeliers and wine experts that will be organized into flights of scent and presented on a rotating basis. There have been no reports of plans for a drinking wall.
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